Recently I asked a few questions of Dr. Judith Hellman about winter skin care. she had some great info and is sharing an exclusive offer with us!
Please explain some of the major differences in skin care for women in their 20’s, 30’s and 40’s.
In their twenties, most women only need to worry about proper cleansing, minimal moisturizing (according to skin type) and lots of sun protection, to help them later in the coming decades. I generally recommend a glycolic/salycilic treatment pad, which both cleans the skin, maintains the pores open and the glycolic acid restores elastic tissue to the skin with daily use. (See GlySal pads on my website).
For oily skin or acne prone skin, I add my Green Tea Antioxidant Serum. Not only is green tea a superb antioxidant, it also functions as an anti-inflammatory agent, hence its use in acne prone skin, and helps reduce oiliness.
In their thirties, women need more moisturizers, since with aging, the skin can hold on to less of its own moisture. Moisturizers restore the barrier function of the skin and also provide extra moisture. This is a good time to start using an eye serum to prevent or treat fine lines around the eyes. My personal recommendation is the Plumping Eye Serum, which contains hyaluronic acid (HUA). HUA is a normal constituent of the skin, and functions to maintain moisture in the skin. It restores volume and needed water content by hugging on to water in the skin and not letting it be depleted. It’s a great way to protect the delicate eye area, which is the first to show signs of aging.
I would also start thinking of an antioxidant, and I often recommend to my patients my Q10 antioxidant cream, a very light moisturizer, tolerated by all skin types, to help maintain the skin and protect it from environmental damage. Sunscreens are still (and always) very important.
In their 40’s, women need all of the above, except more of it. The skin tends to get dryer, and I recommend adding a Glycolic acid cream (I have one with 15% and one with 20% GA). Below the 15%, the product is not very effective. Since the FDA forbids department stores and drugstores from selling high percentages, these products are available from dermatologists and at times, plastic surgeons.
In their 40’s, women benefit from using a Vit C containing serum. Vit C is a needed element for collagen synthesis in the skin. My own Vit C serum also contains a growth factor, TGF Beta, which “invites” collagen making cells (fibroblasts) to the skin where the serum is applied, and the use the Vit C to restore collagen and decrease fine lines, help build up the collagen to tighten pores (yes, pores do get larger as we age), and also provide antioxidant protection (the Vit C). In this age group, I often recommend that women use the Plumping Eye serum on the upper lip as well, which is the second area to develop wrinkles. Last but not least, sun protection is still (and always) important.
Just wanted to remind people about the body- it’s still part of your skin! I recommend a moisturizing lotion with Glycolic Acid, nature’s supermoisturizing anti-aging substance (my body lotion has 15% to be actually effective, not just a ‘feel good’ item). Makes the skin smoother, plumper and gets rid of the fine flaking we get especially in the winter, with indoor heating.
Thank you Dr. Hellman!